A darkroom is what most people refer to as the photo lab. As the name implies, a dark room is a room or a space which is made to be dark in order for photographers to be able to use materials that are light-sensitive to develop films and photographs.

These rooms were first used in the late 1800s up to the early 1900s. However, due to the advancing technologies, the use of these darkrooms for developing photos is continuously decreasing. However, it has found a niche in the hearts of many hobbyists.

Printing your own pictures is one of the most rewarding experiences for photographers. It gives a certain feeling of fulfillment because the picture as a whole, is created by the same hands.
Here are the basic tips you should do when building your own darkroom.

Tip 1. A darkroom is most effective if it can be made totally dark. There are many places in the house which can be converted into a darkroom. You can look at using the spare room or the spare bathroom to be able to build a darkroom.

Tip 2. You must make sure to ventilate the dark room well so as to make it comfortable for working.

Tip 3. Seal off the different parts of the room where leaking light can pass through.

Tip 4. You should buy the necessary supplies for the development of films and photos. The basic things that you need are: enlarger; trays which are adequately sized; tongs; easel; concentrated developer fix and solution. You can go to eBay to be able to purchase some good and cheap supplies.

Tip 5. There should be two partitions in the darkroom, a “wet” one and a “dry” one. The separation is very important so as to avoid mistakes which can damage the photos.

Tip 6. Use the trays wisely and appropriately. One tray should be used to hold the developer solution, the other one should be used to hold the stop solution, and the other one for the fix solution.

Starting from today, I’m 23 years old and Photoaxe is 1 year old. Yes, both in the same day. Should I have 2 cakes? Or just one but special one?
I woke up and went into to chicken to drink my coffe and there it was: a cake and a note from my parents.
I put candles on the cake and wanted to blow them up, but….






Finaly! These candles just won’t stop burning there!
And yes, it was delicios.
I hope you enjoyed these pictures, and, most of all, I hope you enjoyed this one year of photoaxe. It has been a great year, with permanent updates and improvements. And further more, it becomes closer and closer to you and your needs, my dear friend and reader.

Here’s a photography story I made today.
I gave life to a book. First, the book tries to open. The book cannot get open to easy: it falls down. But then it tries again. After a long long, it finally gets opened and begins to tell the story written inside. The hands will give the impression of a story-telling book in most of the pictures. Then, the story ends, and the book closes. The last picture shows the book is asleep until another reader will bother it wishing to find out the story inside.
If you like the idea, you can try making such a story yourself and post it to your blog. Then, give me a link to your story.

Back to Part 1

Large Depth of Field Examples:

A large depth of field is key when you want to share a crisp, sharp and well-focused view of the entire scene with your viewers.

This can be particularly useful in landscapes. Example:

In this photograph, the use of a large depth of field ensures that both the small rock in the foreground and the mountains in the background are well focused and sharp. This helps to convey the natural depth of the landscape.

Here is another example of how the use of a large depth of field can serve landscape photography:

Sometimes it can actually be useful to emphasize how busy a scene is. The use of a large depth of field allows us to do that in this photograph:

More often than not, large depth of field is the way to go with architecture photography, so that everything is sharp and well focused. Example:

Traditionally, portrait photography is known for using shallow depth of field to blur out the background and give the photograph a soft feeling. However there are exceptions to this rule as the following photograph shows:

Occasionally it can be helpful to use a large depth of field in street photography to better convey the context in which the photograph was taken. Example:

In macro photography, it can at times be desirable to have everything in focus if we want to emphasize detail and texture.
Example:

So as you have seen, both shallow and large depth of field can be useful in a wide variety of situations. Once again, there are no set rules as to when to use which, but hopefully after having seen these examples, you will be able to choose wisely.

Notes on Large depth of field:
Using a small aperture like f/16 or even f/22 (if your lens offers it) results in a large depth of field. However, you should not always use the smallest aperture available when you want a large depth of field. This is because at very small apertures, an optical phenomenon called ‘diffraction’ can cause a loss in quality.
Always choose the smallest aperture that will give you the depth of field that you need. For example, even if f/22 is available, f/16 might give you enough depth of field. Choosing the right aperture is something you will learn through practice and experimentation.
Also keep in mind that the smaller aperture you use, the longer the shutter time will be. Therefore when working with small apertures, a tripod is often required to avoid camera shake.

Notes on Shallow depth of field:
On a similar note, when trying to achieve a shallow depth of field, it is not necessarily a good idea to use the largest aperture available.
Let’s say you are taking a portrait of a person infront of a busy street, and you want to use a large aperture to create a shallow depth of field and blur out the busy background.
If you use too large an aperture, even your subject will be partly blurred. Once again, use the aperture that gives you just the right depth of field, where the background is blurred but your subject is still well visible.

A tip for maximum depth of field:
An interesting and useful fact to know is that the depth of field in a photo will always roughly extend 1/3 in front of the subject and 2/3 behind it. What this means is that the area in “acceptable focus” will be larger behind your subject than in front of it.
What this means is that if you focus on the infinite, you are wasting the depth of field behind it. Instead, when you want to try and achieve maximum depth of field, focus on something at 1/3 of the distance to the furthest element in the scene.
This tip will help you get close to the maximum depth of field possible.

When using shallow depth of field, it is very important to make sure you focus on your subject. Most cameras autofocus by focusing on the center of the frame. This can be a problem if the subject is not in the center, as it will not be properly focused.
Fortunately, all models of autofocus cameras offer a way to solve this problem:
You can press the shutter release button halfway down and hold it with the subject in the center. Then you recompose with the subject off center and take the photograph by pressing the button all the way down.

When you first press the shutter release button halfway, the camera focuses on the distance the subject is at. Then you are able to recompose and finally take the photo.

Some cameras offer a selective focus mode that allows you to choose which part of the frame to focus on.

Applications of depth of field:

Understanding and using the concept of depth of field lets you add an entirely new dimension to your work as a photographer.

While there are no set rules as to when to utilize either shallow or large depth of field, we will try and share with you some of the most common situations in which you may find each to be useful.

In other words, it’s time for pretty pictures!

Shallow depth of field examples:

Shallow depth of field is very useful in any situation where you want to concentrate the viewers’ attention on your subject, by blurring out the surroundings.

I will now show you some examples of different styles of photographs that use a shallow depth of field effectively.

I will start off with portrait photography, which quite often benefits from using a shallow depth of field for a softer and more intimate feel.

The use of a shallow depth of field in this portrait creates a blurred background which helps focus the attention on the model and contributes to the dreamy atmosphere.

Now I will show you an example of a very shallow depth of field in a portrait, with both a blurred background and foreground which creates an interesting effect to enhance the composition:

A complication we often face in street photography is that the background is very busy and distracting. Once again a shallow depth of field can help us isolate our subject. Example:

The shallow DOF helps emphasize the subject, while still allowing to appreciate the context in which it was taken.

In macro photography the combination of short distance and long focal length can be used to create a very shallow depth of field which helps isolate small subjects from their busy background.
Examples:

Nature photography too can benefit from the use of shallow depth of field. In the following example, the colour of the subject and the background is the same, a situation in which it can be tricky taking an effective photograph. However, the use of a shallow depth of field still allows us to isolate the subject by blurring out the background:

Isolating the subject with shallow depth of field can also be effective in conceptual photography, to convey your message effectively. Example:

In the photograph below called “a leader”, the choice of depth of field is such that it emphasizes the foremost dog in accordance with the concept; without blurring out the other dogs too much.

Wildlife photography too, can make good use of a shallow depth of field to isolate the subject.

Example:

Go to Depth Of Field – Part 2

In the previous DOF Tutorial I was telling you that Depth of field is influenced by three main factors: 1) Aperture, 2) Focal length, and 3) the distance to the subject. Now I will show you details about each of these factors.

1) Aperture:

The relationship between aperture and depth of field is quite simple:
A large aperture like f/2 gives a shallow depth of field.
A small aperture like f/16 will give you a large depth of field.
Let’s review the examples shown before:

F/1.4

F/5.6

F/16

So if you only want a small part of your image to be in focus, you should use a larger aperture like f/2 or f/4.
To have more of the image in focus, use a smaller aperture like f/16.

For the purpose of achieving depth of field, you will need to be able to control the aperture, and therefore I recommend shooting in Aperture Priority mode. In this mode, you can choose the aperture and the camera does the rest for you and chooses the appropriate shutter speed. If you are comfortable with choosing both shutter speed and aperture yourself, please feel free to shoot in Manual mode.

2) Focal length:

The second parameter that has an influence on the depth of field of a photo is the focal length of the lens you are using. The focal length of a lens gives an indication of the field of view that the lens covers.

A lens with a 28mm focal length for example, is called a wide angle lens and covers a big field of view. It allows to capture a whole landscape in a photo for example. 28mm is a short focal length.

On the other hand, a 300mm lens is a super telephoto lens and only covers a very small field of view. It allows you to zoom in and isolate your subject, like a flying bird for example. 300mm is a long focal length.

If you stand at a given distance from your subject and take a photo with a 28mm wide angle lens, the depth of field will be relatively large and many things around it will be in focus.

Now, if you take a photo of the same subject, from the same distance, but “zoom in” using for example a 300mm telephoto lens, then the the depth of field will be a lot thinner and the background behind your subject is more likely to be heavily blurred.

With a 28mm wide angle lens at F/4 both the bottle and the surroundings are sharp.

With a 200mm zoom lens at F/4 the bottle is sharp but the background is blurred.

What this means in practice is, that in order to get a shallow depth you should zoom in closer to your subject. To get a larger depth of field, zoom out.

3) Distance to the subject:

The third factor that will have an effect on the depth of field, is the distance to your subject – also called focusing distance – that we discussed earlier.

The rule is quite simple:
The closer you are to your subject, the smaller the DOF will be.
The farther you are from your subject, the greater the DOF will be.

From 3 meters away with a 28mm lens, everything is in focus.

With the same lens, but from only 20cm away the depth of field is shallow.

So in order to get a shallow depth of field, you should move closer to your subject. Moving away will help obtain a larger depth of field.

This is the reason why the depth of field is usually so thin in macro photography. Macro lenses have a specific mechanism that allow them to focus at only a few inches from the camera. This effectively creates very small depths of field.

On the contrary when shooting landscape photography, you’ll notice that if you focus on the infinite, the depth of field will be very very big, usually ranging from a few meters away to the infinite.

Summary: How to achieve the desired depth of field.

For shallow depth of field:
a) use a large aperture like f/2,
b) move closer to your subject,
c) zoom in and use a longer focal length.
For large depth of field:
a) use a small aperture like f/16,
b) move further away from your subject,
c) zoom out and use a shorter focal length.

Please do remember that you can, if necessary, use all three together. In other words, if you want to achieve a shallow depth of field, you can try using a large aperture. However, if that doesn’t give a shallow enough depth of field, you can in addition move closer to your subject and zoom in.

If you have just purchased your Nikon D80, the controls on the outside of the camera coupled with all the menus and custom settings can be … all » downright overwhelming. We give you a structure for looking at the controls as well as a repeatable ritual for taking great photos with your new camera. You spent a bundle on this camera. Let it be an extension of your hands rather than a struggle. The Nikon D80 is a powerful piece of equipment. A solid understanding of its features and controls can really unleash its potential. Once you learn how the camera’s components work together, you’ll have all the tools you need to capture the best image under all conditions.
Understanding AF Area Selections Topics include:
• Be Prepared (To Get the Shot)
• Shutter Priority
• Aperture Priority/Depth of Field
• Focus Alternatives
• Metering and Bracketing
• White Balance/Color Temperature
• ISO
• Playback Options / Image Review
• Understanding Histograms
• Exposure Compensation
• Flash Overview
• Custom Settings
• Tripods and Telephoto Lenses
• Programmable Buttons
• RAW (NEF) Files
• Composition
• My Menus
• Bracketing versus Post Processing
• Shutter Priority to Achieve the Effect You Want
• Self Timer and Delay for Rock Solid Results
Take great pictures with your Nikon D80! All you need is this training DVD and about 93 minutes, and you’ll have the knowledge and the confidence to create the images you want. The topics are arranged in chapters, so you can move at your own pace, and return later to individual subjects.

Nikon Understanding Digital Photography DVD You are ready to take your digital SLR photography beyond the automatic settings on your … all » Nikon digital SLR camera, this 45 minute Nikon School© DVD is the perfect guide. Join Bob Krist, award-winning National Geographic Traveler Photographer, on a day of shooting and instruction. Along the way, Bob will offer valuable insights on choices you can make to begin composing and shooting breathtaking photographs.

While on a variety of locations, Bob will share his vast knowledge of photography and Nikon digital SLRs to educate you on:

· Camera settings for best quality in various situations
· Lens choice for creative and practical shooting
· Utilizing the Retouch Menu for in-camera editing
· Exposure fundamentals and shooting options

During the day’s shooting, Bob takes us to familiar situations around the home and demonstrates a variety of creative photographic opportunities. Understanding Digital Photography covers the use of the Nikon Creative Lighting System, using Nikon Speedlights for portraits and small groups. Bob continues removing the mystery of overcoming photographic challenges in a variety of environments including the difficulties encountered with twilight portraits and landscapes.

This DVD offers valuable instruction to anyone interested in digital SLR photography, particularly those who have some familiarity with a digital SLR’s basic functions. For those unfamiliar with basic digital SLR operation, I recommend beginning with the Nikon School© DVD, Fast, Fun& Easy: Great Digital Pictures.

Why not trash the dress the day after the wedding. We took this couple into a remote location in the RM to set up a really cool fashion shoot underwater in a cave (Centoe) in the middle of the Mayan Jungle. We have provided photo examples of our set up and narrate the shoot throughout the video. Trashing the dress!
This is very inspirational, original, well done and… I think I wish for something similar for my wedding.

Cats are cute and funny and everyone who has a cat and a camera will make tons of photos with the pretty pet. As a result, the Internet gets filled up with photos of all cats in the world and “professional” photographers avoid this subject (the newest concept among photographers is that they must seek originality).
However, the days of cats are not yet over. I can still find really good images of cats, images are certainly more than just a point-and-shoot moment, images that were well thought and with some interesting techniques behind them.
Let’s see what I’m talking about (you may notice that the main reason why these pictures are special is the perspective and second, the story behind the picture):

And here’s a list of what you should avoid in order not be lame:
1) large DOF
2) cat stupidity
3) playing cats
4) yawn of cats
5) lazy cats
6) cat’s eye
If you are about to do a cat portrait, pay attention at lighting. The “rules” are the same as for people portrait photography.
The above images belong to a group of artists from deviantart.com: MT-Holy, gilad, scab-lab, wazabees (my favorite cat artist), Joffi, chochweets (must see), mordoc, illugraphy, beethy, SubterfugeMalaises, ssilence, dissentinthestreet, ayaspiralout, DivineError, hoschie and salihguler.
Here’s my personal best image of my cat: